beginning to wonder if I'd make it round Kailash I was feeling so weak, but decided I had to try. We left Tom in the hands of Tenzin and headed off to Tarboche in the car. Tarboche is about 2 hours or so from Darchen and our guide and driver had decided to drive us there as it would be quicker. There is a flagpole at Tarboche which is replaced every year at Saka Dawa (the major festival for Buddhists representing when Buddha reched enlightenment) and apparently it is vitally important how the flagpole stands when it is erected- if it is perfectly vertical, all is well, but if it leans one way or the other, it's not a good sign.
The Tarboche flagpole
..with me & Kailash included
Rik & Tim by a flag pyramid
Chuku Monastery
Yet another view of Kailash
We then drove a bit further to await our yaks. Met up with a large group of Indian pilgrims (a party of 40) who were doing the kora at the same time- they didn't look too happy, and most had arranged to go by pony round the whole course. The yaks took ages to arrive so Rik & I decided to try heading up the nearby hill to Chuku Monastery. We got halfway up when we saw the yaks approaching so headed back down...only to find the yaks and their owners had stopped for tea a little way away. Harumph! So the 3 of us set off slowly as we couldn't be bothered hanging around waiting any more. We left Gyaltsen and the others to take care of it- we were pretty sure they didn't need us around anyway.
The walk wasn't too bad too start off with, with steep hillsides on either side, and the trail following the Lha Chu river for the most part. Apparently this whole area is full of legends about the main Tibetan mythological hero, King Gesar, but I was too busy putting one foot in front of another to notice. Same goes for the terrain- it was stunning but I was too busy focusing on breathing to take note (we were at an altiude of 4,700 metres by this stage, and rising). It got progressively tougher and we all started flagging. However, for some bizarre reason, I got a second wind and so scooted off to find the camp site (we'd already been overtaken by our 3 gorgeous yaks and cheeky yak driver, as well as the 2 sherpas and the Tibetan truck driver who had come in place of Tenzin the guide). And boy, what a place they'd chosed to set up camp- it was amazing- in full view of Kailash and Dira-puk Monastery across the river! Fantastic! Mind you, we were all too pooped to appreciate it that much.
More views on the walk, and our campsite
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