Spooky, very very spooky- the Centre is deserted- it's a ghost town- no new arrivals in sight anywhere (apart from 2 resting in the clinic with eye trouble and a fractured leg). I have never seen it so empty and it's really sad. According to the Director who came in especially to meet us, the border is tightly closed, probably until August after the Olympic games, but when it reopens there will be a flood of refugees and the Centre will be exceptionally busy. So now is a good time to prepare and to get supplies in. We have decided to get a new floor for the classroom, and to replace the windows as they keep breaking.
Back at our new hotel later that afternoon (we moved into Dwarika's, an exceptionally beautiful place, an oasis in the midst of the bustling city), we started the interview process to select a replacement for one of our staff members, who resigned a few weeks ago.
We also had a long chat with an old friend who has returned here to live after a few years away, with her husband and young child. They are very concerned about conditions in Kathmandu as some of their friends have been arrested in the recent protests, and apparently foreigners too, although they are mainly released after a few hours. They are also worried as her sister-in-law returned to Tibet a short while before the recent riots and they have had no news from her and no one can get hold of her.
And now, Thursday, Nepal is closed and we have no choice but to rest and relax at the hotel- a good time to catch up on notes, start thinking of articles to write, draft assorted letters, compile to-do lists for back home, have an occasional swim, drink copious cups of tea and start to unwind after the frantic busy-ness of the past 10 days. Looking forward to Delhi (not many people would say that) as it is Karen's birthday and we plan to spend the day in an air-conditioned cinema watching Shah Rukh Kahn movies.
That's all for now- if anything exciting happens between here and home on Sunday, I will of course let you know. Hope you enjoy the travel tales, I'm sure more will emerge from our memories when we get home. Byee.
Kathmandu
Arrived finally in Kathmandu after that long but fascinating drive to Delhi, but with a stop over and a proper rest at La Sagrita for a few hours before the flight here. But, shock, someone had stolen the Himalayas- they can usually be seen on the flight in from Delhi, but on this flight, no sign of them, so I can only guess that someone has indeed nicked them- so keep a lookout for someone with a very large melting package under their arm.
Our trip, which as I mentioned previously has changed drastically from the original plan, we've now discovered is curtailed even more, as Thursday is election day and everything will be shut down with no vehicles on the road, plus the Centre here is shut for 2 days holiday. So basically, we have to do everything we need tomorrow! Many phone calls later and our day of running around is planned in fine detail. Off for internet and momos at Utse (best momos in Kathmandu!) Back at the hotel (Nirvana Garden), and no power- it turns out that Kathmandu is experiencing 8 hour power cuts every day these days. So nothing to do but sleep.
Our trip, which as I mentioned previously has changed drastically from the original plan, we've now discovered is curtailed even more, as Thursday is election day and everything will be shut down with no vehicles on the road, plus the Centre here is shut for 2 days holiday. So basically, we have to do everything we need tomorrow! Many phone calls later and our day of running around is planned in fine detail. Off for internet and momos at Utse (best momos in Kathmandu!) Back at the hotel (Nirvana Garden), and no power- it turns out that Kathmandu is experiencing 8 hour power cuts every day these days. So nothing to do but sleep.
A very special day
What an amazing day, and one that Ama-la, Rinchen and the director of the Centre had been trying to arrange for days and which involved numerous changes of plan and flight tickets. After 2 alarm calls from friends, we got up early and off to the Dalai Lama's Palace where were checked by security and kept waiting in assorted rooms, until finally being ushered with all the new arrivals into a hall where His Holiness came out to greet everyone and to give a supportive talk to his fellow Tibetans. He mentioned the importance of education; that Tibetans inside Tibet are facing very challenging conditions as there are some very tough officials in charge; that he is not seeking independence but autonomy; and the economic benefits of being part of China but retaining their culture and faith. He also thanked them profusely for having stayed inside Tibet until that point and keeping Tibetan culture alive and living, and that when they return to take what they have learned in India to teach to their fellow Tibetans, especially the philosophy of Buddhism. After that, everyone received a personal blessing, and we were introduced by the Centre director who explained who we were and what we do. His Holiness was very grateful, shook our hands firmly saying an equally firm 'Thank you' to both of us in turn. We had taken some of the recent artwork to show him, some of which he was quite startled at (the first appearance in the children's art of Chinese tanks) but appreciated it...and kept it (much to my dismay as I'd wanted to bring it back to the UK to use in future exhibitions. Oh well, I guess you don't argue with His Holiness!). I also handed over a pot of my mum's homemade strawberry jam- 'Homemade?' he said, then chuckled and took the jam appreciatively.
The next few hours were a bit of a blur as we raced back to the Centre for final farewells with Ama-la and Rinchen, and with the director, had a last dish of momos at Gakyi's (returning Dickyi's iron which had borrowed to smarten our outfits for the morning), then stuffed the last few bits and pieces in our bags, just finishing as Tender arrived with our taxi. We were snowed under with the farewell kata that Tibetans are so fond of wrapping round you when you leave- even Nakahara turned up to give farewell kata and hugs. And off we set, for our 10 hour taxi ride to Delhi- good time for a snooze...zzzzzzzzzz
The next few hours were a bit of a blur as we raced back to the Centre for final farewells with Ama-la and Rinchen, and with the director, had a last dish of momos at Gakyi's (returning Dickyi's iron which had borrowed to smarten our outfits for the morning), then stuffed the last few bits and pieces in our bags, just finishing as Tender arrived with our taxi. We were snowed under with the farewell kata that Tibetans are so fond of wrapping round you when you leave- even Nakahara turned up to give farewell kata and hugs. And off we set, for our 10 hour taxi ride to Delhi- good time for a snooze...zzzzzzzzzz
yummy cake
A nice day to start with- sunshine at last. Went to the Centre with Tenor, a very helpful friend, who had translated the mission statement and purpose of the Programme into Tibetan. He explained it thoroughly to Ama-la who seemed pleased that we had taken the time and trouble to do this. After seeing the Tiblets off on their journey back to school, we returned to the hotel to meet Rebecca Novick, the Executive Producer for the Tibet Connection, an English language radio and web show about Tibet. She wanted to interview us about the programme, which she thinks will be broadcast on April 22nd, and can be heard online (www.thetibetconnection.org). At dinner that eveing we were joined by Nakahara, the owner of Lung-Ta, for whom we'd had some prayer flags made- he was delighted. and very chatty that night. We walked with Dolma after dinner back to her friend's place- Jamyang is the longest serving baker in Dharamsala. She’d requested a banana cake from him for us and we tried a piece- it was delicious; he is an excellent baker, and supplies the hotels and restaurants in town. We have been so well taken care of on this trip- it's a real treat :)
monsoon
Ugh- a winter monsoon has descended- pelting rain, howling gales and general sogginess all day. We couldn't even see the mountains outside- it felt like we were right in the middle of a vast cloud. And it was cold, so cold that Karen and I ended up buying 2 very colourful and soft blankets and wrapped ourselves up for the day. It should have been an indoors day but we decided to return to the Centre for one final art class. There isn't usually a program at the weekends, but Ama-la made a special exception for us as we were there for such a short time. Because of the torrential rain, the class was held downstairs in the women's dormitory, and the tables had been carried down so the children could draw properly. They seemed very happy to see us again, and we found another visitor there, this time a reporter from Finland who is based in Beijing and was acompanied by Lobsang, a local photographer who has been to the centre many times before.
Back at the hotel, we chatted to Steve who was leaving later but keeping his bag in our room until it was time for him to catch his bus. Apparently he has emailed many of his friends back home in the hope that some of them will be interested in helping Art Refuge UK. He also promised to meet up with us in Nottingham in May when the Dalai Lama comes over. I look forward to seeing him again and hope we can include him in the charity somehow.
In the evening, the Tiblets wanted to join in the candelit procession as it was a very special evening. Children from the 3 major Tibetan schools in the area gathered in Mcleod Ganj to lead the procession, along with banners they had prepared in school, the most gut wrenching of which read: Stop Killing our Parents. We watched them all pass by our hotel, then joined in with the rest of the locals. It was an incredibly moving time, walking in solidarity with the Tiblets, holding hands, them chanting the prayers as loud as they could, over and over; elderly Tibetans passing us and acknowledging our presence with a nod and a broad smile of gratitude; video cameras from news reporters recording faces and banners, the overwheming feelings of sadness and anger and frustration...The march ended at the main temple, where there were speeches, and video footage and photos of the troubles in Tibet. The Tiblets got a little agitated and wanted to leave at that point, not wanting to stay for the beginning of the Tara prayers that the other children were settling down to do for the whole night. So we returned to our room, after dinner, and chatted and watched TV. A slightly more sombre evening than the previous night.
Back at the hotel, we chatted to Steve who was leaving later but keeping his bag in our room until it was time for him to catch his bus. Apparently he has emailed many of his friends back home in the hope that some of them will be interested in helping Art Refuge UK. He also promised to meet up with us in Nottingham in May when the Dalai Lama comes over. I look forward to seeing him again and hope we can include him in the charity somehow.
In the evening, the Tiblets wanted to join in the candelit procession as it was a very special evening. Children from the 3 major Tibetan schools in the area gathered in Mcleod Ganj to lead the procession, along with banners they had prepared in school, the most gut wrenching of which read: Stop Killing our Parents. We watched them all pass by our hotel, then joined in with the rest of the locals. It was an incredibly moving time, walking in solidarity with the Tiblets, holding hands, them chanting the prayers as loud as they could, over and over; elderly Tibetans passing us and acknowledging our presence with a nod and a broad smile of gratitude; video cameras from news reporters recording faces and banners, the overwheming feelings of sadness and anger and frustration...The march ended at the main temple, where there were speeches, and video footage and photos of the troubles in Tibet. The Tiblets got a little agitated and wanted to leave at that point, not wanting to stay for the beginning of the Tara prayers that the other children were settling down to do for the whole night. So we returned to our room, after dinner, and chatted and watched TV. A slightly more sombre evening than the previous night.
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