Spooky, very very spooky- the Centre is deserted- it's a ghost town- no new arrivals in sight anywhere (apart from 2 resting in the clinic with eye trouble and a fractured leg). I have never seen it so empty and it's really sad. According to the Director who came in especially to meet us, the border is tightly closed, probably until August after the Olympic games, but when it reopens there will be a flood of refugees and the Centre will be exceptionally busy. So now is a good time to prepare and to get supplies in. We have decided to get a new floor for the classroom, and to replace the windows as they keep breaking.
Back at our new hotel later that afternoon (we moved into Dwarika's, an exceptionally beautiful place, an oasis in the midst of the bustling city), we started the interview process to select a replacement for one of our staff members, who resigned a few weeks ago.
We also had a long chat with an old friend who has returned here to live after a few years away, with her husband and young child. They are very concerned about conditions in Kathmandu as some of their friends have been arrested in the recent protests, and apparently foreigners too, although they are mainly released after a few hours. They are also worried as her sister-in-law returned to Tibet a short while before the recent riots and they have had no news from her and no one can get hold of her.
And now, Thursday, Nepal is closed and we have no choice but to rest and relax at the hotel- a good time to catch up on notes, start thinking of articles to write, draft assorted letters, compile to-do lists for back home, have an occasional swim, drink copious cups of tea and start to unwind after the frantic busy-ness of the past 10 days. Looking forward to Delhi (not many people would say that) as it is Karen's birthday and we plan to spend the day in an air-conditioned cinema watching Shah Rukh Kahn movies.
That's all for now- if anything exciting happens between here and home on Sunday, I will of course let you know. Hope you enjoy the travel tales, I'm sure more will emerge from our memories when we get home. Byee.
Kathmandu
Arrived finally in Kathmandu after that long but fascinating drive to Delhi, but with a stop over and a proper rest at La Sagrita for a few hours before the flight here. But, shock, someone had stolen the Himalayas- they can usually be seen on the flight in from Delhi, but on this flight, no sign of them, so I can only guess that someone has indeed nicked them- so keep a lookout for someone with a very large melting package under their arm.
Our trip, which as I mentioned previously has changed drastically from the original plan, we've now discovered is curtailed even more, as Thursday is election day and everything will be shut down with no vehicles on the road, plus the Centre here is shut for 2 days holiday. So basically, we have to do everything we need tomorrow! Many phone calls later and our day of running around is planned in fine detail. Off for internet and momos at Utse (best momos in Kathmandu!) Back at the hotel (Nirvana Garden), and no power- it turns out that Kathmandu is experiencing 8 hour power cuts every day these days. So nothing to do but sleep.
Our trip, which as I mentioned previously has changed drastically from the original plan, we've now discovered is curtailed even more, as Thursday is election day and everything will be shut down with no vehicles on the road, plus the Centre here is shut for 2 days holiday. So basically, we have to do everything we need tomorrow! Many phone calls later and our day of running around is planned in fine detail. Off for internet and momos at Utse (best momos in Kathmandu!) Back at the hotel (Nirvana Garden), and no power- it turns out that Kathmandu is experiencing 8 hour power cuts every day these days. So nothing to do but sleep.
A very special day
What an amazing day, and one that Ama-la, Rinchen and the director of the Centre had been trying to arrange for days and which involved numerous changes of plan and flight tickets. After 2 alarm calls from friends, we got up early and off to the Dalai Lama's Palace where were checked by security and kept waiting in assorted rooms, until finally being ushered with all the new arrivals into a hall where His Holiness came out to greet everyone and to give a supportive talk to his fellow Tibetans. He mentioned the importance of education; that Tibetans inside Tibet are facing very challenging conditions as there are some very tough officials in charge; that he is not seeking independence but autonomy; and the economic benefits of being part of China but retaining their culture and faith. He also thanked them profusely for having stayed inside Tibet until that point and keeping Tibetan culture alive and living, and that when they return to take what they have learned in India to teach to their fellow Tibetans, especially the philosophy of Buddhism. After that, everyone received a personal blessing, and we were introduced by the Centre director who explained who we were and what we do. His Holiness was very grateful, shook our hands firmly saying an equally firm 'Thank you' to both of us in turn. We had taken some of the recent artwork to show him, some of which he was quite startled at (the first appearance in the children's art of Chinese tanks) but appreciated it...and kept it (much to my dismay as I'd wanted to bring it back to the UK to use in future exhibitions. Oh well, I guess you don't argue with His Holiness!). I also handed over a pot of my mum's homemade strawberry jam- 'Homemade?' he said, then chuckled and took the jam appreciatively.
The next few hours were a bit of a blur as we raced back to the Centre for final farewells with Ama-la and Rinchen, and with the director, had a last dish of momos at Gakyi's (returning Dickyi's iron which had borrowed to smarten our outfits for the morning), then stuffed the last few bits and pieces in our bags, just finishing as Tender arrived with our taxi. We were snowed under with the farewell kata that Tibetans are so fond of wrapping round you when you leave- even Nakahara turned up to give farewell kata and hugs. And off we set, for our 10 hour taxi ride to Delhi- good time for a snooze...zzzzzzzzzz
The next few hours were a bit of a blur as we raced back to the Centre for final farewells with Ama-la and Rinchen, and with the director, had a last dish of momos at Gakyi's (returning Dickyi's iron which had borrowed to smarten our outfits for the morning), then stuffed the last few bits and pieces in our bags, just finishing as Tender arrived with our taxi. We were snowed under with the farewell kata that Tibetans are so fond of wrapping round you when you leave- even Nakahara turned up to give farewell kata and hugs. And off we set, for our 10 hour taxi ride to Delhi- good time for a snooze...zzzzzzzzzz
yummy cake
A nice day to start with- sunshine at last. Went to the Centre with Tenor, a very helpful friend, who had translated the mission statement and purpose of the Programme into Tibetan. He explained it thoroughly to Ama-la who seemed pleased that we had taken the time and trouble to do this. After seeing the Tiblets off on their journey back to school, we returned to the hotel to meet Rebecca Novick, the Executive Producer for the Tibet Connection, an English language radio and web show about Tibet. She wanted to interview us about the programme, which she thinks will be broadcast on April 22nd, and can be heard online (www.thetibetconnection.org). At dinner that eveing we were joined by Nakahara, the owner of Lung-Ta, for whom we'd had some prayer flags made- he was delighted. and very chatty that night. We walked with Dolma after dinner back to her friend's place- Jamyang is the longest serving baker in Dharamsala. She’d requested a banana cake from him for us and we tried a piece- it was delicious; he is an excellent baker, and supplies the hotels and restaurants in town. We have been so well taken care of on this trip- it's a real treat :)
monsoon
Ugh- a winter monsoon has descended- pelting rain, howling gales and general sogginess all day. We couldn't even see the mountains outside- it felt like we were right in the middle of a vast cloud. And it was cold, so cold that Karen and I ended up buying 2 very colourful and soft blankets and wrapped ourselves up for the day. It should have been an indoors day but we decided to return to the Centre for one final art class. There isn't usually a program at the weekends, but Ama-la made a special exception for us as we were there for such a short time. Because of the torrential rain, the class was held downstairs in the women's dormitory, and the tables had been carried down so the children could draw properly. They seemed very happy to see us again, and we found another visitor there, this time a reporter from Finland who is based in Beijing and was acompanied by Lobsang, a local photographer who has been to the centre many times before.
Back at the hotel, we chatted to Steve who was leaving later but keeping his bag in our room until it was time for him to catch his bus. Apparently he has emailed many of his friends back home in the hope that some of them will be interested in helping Art Refuge UK. He also promised to meet up with us in Nottingham in May when the Dalai Lama comes over. I look forward to seeing him again and hope we can include him in the charity somehow.
In the evening, the Tiblets wanted to join in the candelit procession as it was a very special evening. Children from the 3 major Tibetan schools in the area gathered in Mcleod Ganj to lead the procession, along with banners they had prepared in school, the most gut wrenching of which read: Stop Killing our Parents. We watched them all pass by our hotel, then joined in with the rest of the locals. It was an incredibly moving time, walking in solidarity with the Tiblets, holding hands, them chanting the prayers as loud as they could, over and over; elderly Tibetans passing us and acknowledging our presence with a nod and a broad smile of gratitude; video cameras from news reporters recording faces and banners, the overwheming feelings of sadness and anger and frustration...The march ended at the main temple, where there were speeches, and video footage and photos of the troubles in Tibet. The Tiblets got a little agitated and wanted to leave at that point, not wanting to stay for the beginning of the Tara prayers that the other children were settling down to do for the whole night. So we returned to our room, after dinner, and chatted and watched TV. A slightly more sombre evening than the previous night.
Back at the hotel, we chatted to Steve who was leaving later but keeping his bag in our room until it was time for him to catch his bus. Apparently he has emailed many of his friends back home in the hope that some of them will be interested in helping Art Refuge UK. He also promised to meet up with us in Nottingham in May when the Dalai Lama comes over. I look forward to seeing him again and hope we can include him in the charity somehow.
In the evening, the Tiblets wanted to join in the candelit procession as it was a very special evening. Children from the 3 major Tibetan schools in the area gathered in Mcleod Ganj to lead the procession, along with banners they had prepared in school, the most gut wrenching of which read: Stop Killing our Parents. We watched them all pass by our hotel, then joined in with the rest of the locals. It was an incredibly moving time, walking in solidarity with the Tiblets, holding hands, them chanting the prayers as loud as they could, over and over; elderly Tibetans passing us and acknowledging our presence with a nod and a broad smile of gratitude; video cameras from news reporters recording faces and banners, the overwheming feelings of sadness and anger and frustration...The march ended at the main temple, where there were speeches, and video footage and photos of the troubles in Tibet. The Tiblets got a little agitated and wanted to leave at that point, not wanting to stay for the beginning of the Tara prayers that the other children were settling down to do for the whole night. So we returned to our room, after dinner, and chatted and watched TV. A slightly more sombre evening than the previous night.
Friday
A very intense day. Arrived at the Centre late morning to find my Tiblets had already arrived. For those of you who may not understand this statement- my 'Tiblets' are a group of children I first met many years ago at the Reception Centres and have kept in touch with since- we meet up every time I come over and we have grown to be like a family. I have even met their family members, those who are now in Kathmandu and those who are still in Tibet, and sometimes I carry messages and photos back and forth. The Tiblets are very special to me and we had managed to get permission for them to come here to Dharamsala for the night so we could spend time together. It is a particularly intense time because they are worried about family back in Tibet but can get no news about them, and I was overwhelmed with sadness when I greeted them, maybe from my own worry about their families or had picked up on their anxiety. Some children in their school heard the other day that some family members in Tibet were killed recently, and now there has been another riot and more Tibetans have been killed. So as you can imagine, the mood in Dharamsala is very somber- the candle lit vigil this evening was attended by many more people than usual and had us in tears as we watched them pass by. Mind you, I have been fighting back the tears all day starting with our first greeting, and then in class this afternoon, one of the Tiblets drew a very poignant picture of the death and destruction in Tibet and it was heartbreaking. Added to this, there are posters and pictures all over Dharamsala of the dead in Tibet, their wounds, blood etc. Very gory and gut wrenching.
You read in the papers back home about there being prayers, candle-lit vigils, protests, etc, but to actually experience it is a completely different matter- it really pierces you to the bone. Our favourite restaurant owner was telling us earlier about the hunger strike here, and how every business has pledged to send one person from their family to join in- it's a relay so each person goes on hunger strike for 24 hours, and she was telling us her son had volunteered as he wanted to do something important to support their people in Tibet. We are now waiting as there is a programme about Tibet on the Indian news tonight and we want to see if there is any more news.
More tomorrow..
You read in the papers back home about there being prayers, candle-lit vigils, protests, etc, but to actually experience it is a completely different matter- it really pierces you to the bone. Our favourite restaurant owner was telling us earlier about the hunger strike here, and how every business has pledged to send one person from their family to join in- it's a relay so each person goes on hunger strike for 24 hours, and she was telling us her son had volunteered as he wanted to do something important to support their people in Tibet. We are now waiting as there is a programme about Tibet on the Indian news tonight and we want to see if there is any more news.
More tomorrow..
Thursday April 3rd
Gosh, there's a lot to write about. We arrived in India ok (luckily leaving from Terminal 4 not 5) and had a very smooth flight up to Dharamsala - if anyone is planning a trip I enthusiastically recommend the plane journey- it's so quick. However, if you suffer from motion sickness it might not be an idea as it can be quite bumpy if you meet clouds and your tummy will move up to your mouth and then back down again!
But I'm sure some of you want to know our journey details. You're all dying to hear what's going on considering the world's eyes are on the Tibetan issue right now.
Dharamsala is a very interesting place to be currently. There are many Tibetan flags fluttering in the breeze, and over people's shoulders; many posters for a Free Tibet, and a candlelit procession every night with prayers to Chenrezig for all the Tibetans who have died in the conflict. Sitting in the internet cafe we saw the procession of the night passing by, led by monks it seemed and followed by nuns, as manay local Tibetans as possible and assorted supportive Westerners, all of whom cradled a candle and prayed. The sound of their mantras filled the night air and lingered, touching the heart deeply.
At the moment in the Centre, there are 9 children. A few left last Friday, and 3 arrived last night. But these will be the last ones for a while. In my email report today from Kathmandu, I was told there are none left there now and I'm guessing that until the Olympic games are over, no more will be able to leave Tibet. Apparently there are Chinese soldiers patrolling up to twenty miles within the Nepal border in civilian clothing so any new refugees don't stand a chance!
At the centre today, we met with a lovely man called Francesco who is writing a book on memories of Tibet and so is interviewing adults and children to find out their stories - he is going to include some drawings from the children as well.
We also met with the owner of Lung-Ta, the Japanese restaurant here - he has been here for 20 years, helping the Tibetans - he wants some pictures to send back to Japan to exhibit, so we will meet with him tomorrow to discuss further.
It is very busy at the centre for obvious reasons, and there are many film crews around, as well as journalists, Tibet activists and the curious.
On a more updating note, the India Football Captain has decided to pull out of the Olympic Torch relay as he is a supporter of Tibet, and the previous India Defence Minister has recommended that India blockade the Olympic Torch so that it doesn't come to India at all.
And on top of it all, the Dalai Lama has cancelled all meetings as he is not well..it's not that he is physiaclly sick, but he is sick from sadness over all the troubles and deaths and violence.
But I'm sure some of you want to know our journey details. You're all dying to hear what's going on considering the world's eyes are on the Tibetan issue right now.
Dharamsala is a very interesting place to be currently. There are many Tibetan flags fluttering in the breeze, and over people's shoulders; many posters for a Free Tibet, and a candlelit procession every night with prayers to Chenrezig for all the Tibetans who have died in the conflict. Sitting in the internet cafe we saw the procession of the night passing by, led by monks it seemed and followed by nuns, as manay local Tibetans as possible and assorted supportive Westerners, all of whom cradled a candle and prayed. The sound of their mantras filled the night air and lingered, touching the heart deeply.
At the moment in the Centre, there are 9 children. A few left last Friday, and 3 arrived last night. But these will be the last ones for a while. In my email report today from Kathmandu, I was told there are none left there now and I'm guessing that until the Olympic games are over, no more will be able to leave Tibet. Apparently there are Chinese soldiers patrolling up to twenty miles within the Nepal border in civilian clothing so any new refugees don't stand a chance!
At the centre today, we met with a lovely man called Francesco who is writing a book on memories of Tibet and so is interviewing adults and children to find out their stories - he is going to include some drawings from the children as well.
We also met with the owner of Lung-Ta, the Japanese restaurant here - he has been here for 20 years, helping the Tibetans - he wants some pictures to send back to Japan to exhibit, so we will meet with him tomorrow to discuss further.
It is very busy at the centre for obvious reasons, and there are many film crews around, as well as journalists, Tibet activists and the curious.
On a more updating note, the India Football Captain has decided to pull out of the Olympic Torch relay as he is a supporter of Tibet, and the previous India Defence Minister has recommended that India blockade the Olympic Torch so that it doesn't come to India at all.
And on top of it all, the Dalai Lama has cancelled all meetings as he is not well..it's not that he is physiaclly sick, but he is sick from sadness over all the troubles and deaths and violence.
Spring 2008..changes afoot
Yes, I know, no blog since last August, and that's not the point of a blog is it? Well, I feel that a blog should have something interesting to say, which is why I only do it when I go travelling, in particular when it's traveling for the charity. So on Monday, Karen & I (she's our charity secretary and my good buddy) are going to Dharamsala for a few days and then on to Kathmandu for a few more days. She's not been to Kathmandu before so it will be her introduction to the Art Refuge Programme there and our staff. well, I say our staff except we seem to be one short now; Kyiso is currently traveling in the USA. Probably safer there, as many Tibetans in Kathmandu have been protesting over events in Tibet, and many have been arrested, so I hear.
The purpose of this blog, then, is to keep you updated as to events there, and how they may impact on Art Refuge/ Art Refuge UK. But there will probably be other bits and pieces thrown in for good measure- just to keep it entertaining...
More on Tuesday when we (hopefully) arrive in Dharamsala( we are flying BA to Delhi- fingers crossed that they've got their act together by then)
The purpose of this blog, then, is to keep you updated as to events there, and how they may impact on Art Refuge/ Art Refuge UK. But there will probably be other bits and pieces thrown in for good measure- just to keep it entertaining...
More on Tuesday when we (hopefully) arrive in Dharamsala( we are flying BA to Delhi- fingers crossed that they've got their act together by then)
Home safe and sound
So we made it. We got to Mount Kailash and have returned safe and sound. Our journey over the border went smoothly, thanks to Tenzin and Gyaltsen. The journey back to Kathmandu was long (many strikes and road blocks) which was frustrating. But we arrived back in Kathmandu 2 days earlier than expected due to the army troubles in Tibet, so we treated ourselves to a luxurious stay in Kathmandu's best hotel, Dwarikas (www.dwarikas.com)- it's incredible! If you ever get a chance to go there- do- it's like staying an an ancient village in Nepal, a serene oasis of tranquility right in the heart of the city. That helped our flagging spirits and energy recover. We'd been to this place on our previous visit, when we took Basant out to dinner at the Nepalese restaurant there, called Krishnarpan and had a 6 course meal (they offered up to 22 courses as well). Good traditional Nepalese food- yummy.
The boys went white water rafting the day after we arrived (honestly, they can't sit still for a minute!) while I spent some quality time with Prerana, Basant's wife, and her mum (I desperately needed female company- after all, I'd just spent the past 2 weeks with 8 men!) We also visited Boudha again and met up with some Tibetan friends, including the mother of 3 of my Tiblets in Dharamsala.
After that we flew back to Delhi, left Rik there for the night (he flew back to the UK the following day) while Tim, Tom & I got the train up to Dharamsala where we spent a busy 3 days checking on the Art Refuge program and staff, reconnecting with Ama Adhe, meeting Moina our new volunteer, bumping into old friends and hanging out with the 5 Tiblets.
And now we're all back in the UK, resting and recovering from jet lag, travel lag, assorted tummy bugs, and culture shock. I haven't heard a thing from the boys since we got back (though had a quick call with Rik) so hope they're still talking to me and will forgive me for dragging them to such a remote, inhospitable part of the world ;) I hope one day they'll go back, that in retrospect they'll find they enjoyed themselves.
In the meantime, Rik (I think) has raised about £1500 on his website for this trip, which he's splitting between Art Refuge UK and Aspire (he's an anethetist and works with spinal injuries patients, so that's fair), and I've raised about £400 so far, so even though we lost a few brain cells on the way. at least we were able to put them to a good cause!
If any of you feel like attempting this journey yourselves, contact our wonderful friend who put it all together for us, Basant (bate@mail.com.np) but make sure you ask that Gyaltsen be part of the package. No trip to Kailsh is worth it unless you have Gyaltsen bringing you tea in the mornings- makes the days worthwhile!
And that's it- hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures. I'm off to potter in the lush greeness of Suffolk caused by weeks of rain (seems the monsoon has followed me)-hope summer comes soon.
thanks for reading this far; there are some final photos below for your amusement.
may you be inspired to travel too,
love
Frances
Spot the 2 weary travellers resting under the stupa's watchful eyes...
...joined by a bearded Rik (he didn't shave for the whole trip)
3 bearded wierdies and 2 lovely Tibetan ladies
Our footprint left in that restaurant in Kathmandu (whose name I can't remember right now)- artwork by Tim
from right to left: Prerana, Basant, Kundu their son, and Sailendra (who works for Basant and who is gorgeous!)
A courtyard at Dwarikas
The pool at Dwarikas
A bearded new arrival at the Dharamsala Reception Centre comtemplates his next move
A second bearded new arrival in Dharamsala does the same
A strange Indian beggar who collected money by whipping himself- ouch!
Assorted Tiblets, travelers and Ama Adhe
Ama-la herself
The boys went white water rafting the day after we arrived (honestly, they can't sit still for a minute!) while I spent some quality time with Prerana, Basant's wife, and her mum (I desperately needed female company- after all, I'd just spent the past 2 weeks with 8 men!) We also visited Boudha again and met up with some Tibetan friends, including the mother of 3 of my Tiblets in Dharamsala.
After that we flew back to Delhi, left Rik there for the night (he flew back to the UK the following day) while Tim, Tom & I got the train up to Dharamsala where we spent a busy 3 days checking on the Art Refuge program and staff, reconnecting with Ama Adhe, meeting Moina our new volunteer, bumping into old friends and hanging out with the 5 Tiblets.
And now we're all back in the UK, resting and recovering from jet lag, travel lag, assorted tummy bugs, and culture shock. I haven't heard a thing from the boys since we got back (though had a quick call with Rik) so hope they're still talking to me and will forgive me for dragging them to such a remote, inhospitable part of the world ;) I hope one day they'll go back, that in retrospect they'll find they enjoyed themselves.
In the meantime, Rik (I think) has raised about £1500 on his website for this trip, which he's splitting between Art Refuge UK and Aspire (he's an anethetist and works with spinal injuries patients, so that's fair), and I've raised about £400 so far, so even though we lost a few brain cells on the way. at least we were able to put them to a good cause!
If any of you feel like attempting this journey yourselves, contact our wonderful friend who put it all together for us, Basant (bate@mail.com.np) but make sure you ask that Gyaltsen be part of the package. No trip to Kailsh is worth it unless you have Gyaltsen bringing you tea in the mornings- makes the days worthwhile!
And that's it- hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures. I'm off to potter in the lush greeness of Suffolk caused by weeks of rain (seems the monsoon has followed me)-hope summer comes soon.
thanks for reading this far; there are some final photos below for your amusement.
may you be inspired to travel too,
love
Frances
Spot the 2 weary travellers resting under the stupa's watchful eyes...
...joined by a bearded Rik (he didn't shave for the whole trip)
3 bearded wierdies and 2 lovely Tibetan ladies
Our footprint left in that restaurant in Kathmandu (whose name I can't remember right now)- artwork by Tim
from right to left: Prerana, Basant, Kundu their son, and Sailendra (who works for Basant and who is gorgeous!)
A courtyard at Dwarikas
The pool at Dwarikas
A bearded new arrival at the Dharamsala Reception Centre comtemplates his next move
A second bearded new arrival in Dharamsala does the same
A strange Indian beggar who collected money by whipping himself- ouch!
Assorted Tiblets, travelers and Ama Adhe
Ama-la herself
Back to Nepal
I felt a bit like a fugitive today- we had 2 checkpoints to get through, one of which appeared out of nowhere, a landcruiser on the side of the road marked: Border Defence Police' (we were nowhere near any border at this stage). The 2nd checkpoint was cleverly by a petrol station so you couldn't get past it if you wanted to proceed any further along the road (petrol stations are few and far between). Interestingly, at the petrol station there was also a very large truck full of Tibetans all heading towards Kailash...or trying to. None of them had travel permits so they were stuck where they were. It turned out that several of the people on board actually wanted to go further than Kailash, according to Tenzin, by which he meant Indis...i.e. they were in the process of escaping! So now I've seen all aspects of the journey of Tibetans who escape from Tibet right up to their new homes and lives in exile. Full circle, so to speak. Quite sombering...
It was a long drive today and tee car broke down at one point and had to be push started (Rik & Tim tried but were too breathless to have much effect- we had to wait for the truck and our superheroes Gyaltsen and Prem who managed with no trouble. Due to really heavy rains, the river was swollen and a disgusting colour, so we decided no camping tonight (I didn't fancy having food that had been cooked in that water). Instead we headed into Saga and checked into what could've been their version of a 5 star hotel...except that they had no running water at all. Gyaltsen and Prem set up kitchen int eh hotel garage while Si-Shi-la went to ge th car fixed and Tenzin ed us to the public showers round the corner. Rik managed to break his shower and at one point had both the owner and the owner's wife in there with him (!). And to our amazement, Gyaltsen served up our usual 3 course dinner...in the hotel lobby. And to our extreme amazement, Prem managed to produce a chocolate cake with icing! That man is a genius!
Our 5 star lobby
...with compulsory washing machine
The following morning 'Excuse me, tea please' was served in the hotel rooms and breakfast back down in the lobby. We then had a delightful journey back to the border via a shortcut road from Saga to Zhangmo. It was a lovely journey- hardly any traffic at all-in the first 2 and a half hours of driving we saw 1 other car, 2 trucks, a handful of tractors, 1 motorbike, 1 marmot, several sheep, many nomad camps, quite a few yak...and no Chinese! Bliss! There were a few high passes, then it was all downhill. We dined at Nylam at 6:30, hten joined the queue of cars waiting to drive to the border town of Zhangmo- apparently hte government were working on the road here too, so it was a case of only being able to drive along it after dark or early in the morning. Our driver was determined to get us to the border asap. And what a fantastic journey- I've always loved this part of any journey to or from Tibet- the landscape changes dramatically, going from dry desert landscape to lush tortuously winding narrow roads, passing under waterfalls, completely tropical, fresh air, tons of oxygen, and high spirits. And it was misty which lent a certain magic to the situation. The boys loved it, I could tell. We had a minor delay when the car in front of us lost a rear wheel- we saw it falling off which was quite dramatic. All the drivers stopped to help, and refused to return to their cars when a Chinese official looking person came and barked at them. They stick together, out of necessity- trips to Western Tibet are hard going on any vehicle, so when one breaks down, they all help each other out (unless you're Chinese).
We stayed in a mildewy hotel on our last night, no dinner from Prem tonight (we'd dined in Nyalam earlier) and were accosted by the 'money changee' man a few times until we told him to come back in the morning. Good thing we'd dined earlier- the truck arrived really late as a tyre had burst and they'd had no spare on board. They'd had to send for one by a passing motorbike!
Some views on the way...
...including a bizarre jumping sheep
The last high pass
signs of life again
greenery appearing again
view from Zhangmo hotel room
It was a long drive today and tee car broke down at one point and had to be push started (Rik & Tim tried but were too breathless to have much effect- we had to wait for the truck and our superheroes Gyaltsen and Prem who managed with no trouble. Due to really heavy rains, the river was swollen and a disgusting colour, so we decided no camping tonight (I didn't fancy having food that had been cooked in that water). Instead we headed into Saga and checked into what could've been their version of a 5 star hotel...except that they had no running water at all. Gyaltsen and Prem set up kitchen int eh hotel garage while Si-Shi-la went to ge th car fixed and Tenzin ed us to the public showers round the corner. Rik managed to break his shower and at one point had both the owner and the owner's wife in there with him (!). And to our amazement, Gyaltsen served up our usual 3 course dinner...in the hotel lobby. And to our extreme amazement, Prem managed to produce a chocolate cake with icing! That man is a genius!
Our 5 star lobby
...with compulsory washing machine
The following morning 'Excuse me, tea please' was served in the hotel rooms and breakfast back down in the lobby. We then had a delightful journey back to the border via a shortcut road from Saga to Zhangmo. It was a lovely journey- hardly any traffic at all-in the first 2 and a half hours of driving we saw 1 other car, 2 trucks, a handful of tractors, 1 motorbike, 1 marmot, several sheep, many nomad camps, quite a few yak...and no Chinese! Bliss! There were a few high passes, then it was all downhill. We dined at Nylam at 6:30, hten joined the queue of cars waiting to drive to the border town of Zhangmo- apparently hte government were working on the road here too, so it was a case of only being able to drive along it after dark or early in the morning. Our driver was determined to get us to the border asap. And what a fantastic journey- I've always loved this part of any journey to or from Tibet- the landscape changes dramatically, going from dry desert landscape to lush tortuously winding narrow roads, passing under waterfalls, completely tropical, fresh air, tons of oxygen, and high spirits. And it was misty which lent a certain magic to the situation. The boys loved it, I could tell. We had a minor delay when the car in front of us lost a rear wheel- we saw it falling off which was quite dramatic. All the drivers stopped to help, and refused to return to their cars when a Chinese official looking person came and barked at them. They stick together, out of necessity- trips to Western Tibet are hard going on any vehicle, so when one breaks down, they all help each other out (unless you're Chinese).
We stayed in a mildewy hotel on our last night, no dinner from Prem tonight (we'd dined in Nyalam earlier) and were accosted by the 'money changee' man a few times until we told him to come back in the morning. Good thing we'd dined earlier- the truck arrived really late as a tyre had burst and they'd had no spare on board. They'd had to send for one by a passing motorbike!
Some views on the way...
...including a bizarre jumping sheep
The last high pass
signs of life again
greenery appearing again
view from Zhangmo hotel room
Kailash, Day 3- Drama at Darchen
That was a nasty storm the night before- I was worried all night that the tent would blow away or that we'd get flooded.
Thankfully, we were all feeling better this morning...probably because we knew the end was in sight. It was only a 2 hour (ish) walk to the meeting place arranged beforehand with Tenzin. I popped up to the Zutul-puk Monastery before we left camp (feeling I really ought to visit one monastery before leaving this area. It was small and has a 'miracle cave' out back where Milarepa (a Tibetan saint) was supposed to have raised the roof with his head and hands- you can still see the imprint!
After a lovely almost leisurely walk of about 2 hours, we found Tom waiting for us, with Tenzin, Si-Shi-la, the car, the truck and all other staff. Hurray! Tom was looking much perkier and smiling- what a relief! He'd even got us a bottle of mineral water- the hero (we'd got tired of drinking sterilised river water- didn't taste great!) After many pictures (which I don't have as my camera batteries went flat- hopefully someone will send me some), a rest and update on events, we set off rather quickly. Apparently, some stupid foreigner at Darchen had handed out photos of the Dalai Lama. The Chinese army didn't like that so surrounded the town, started searching everyone in sight (Tibetans included), tore up travel permits (Tibetans included) and shut down all businesses and restaurants. Darchen had suddenly become a no-go area. Tenzin, our guide, decided, probably sensibly, that we should flee just in case the army decided to tear up our permit which would cause huge trouble for getting out of the country. we still wanted to visit Lake Manasrovar though so headed that way, only to find that the army had control of that area too, so we couldn't go down and take photos by the shore, only from a point far above. Very disappointing as it is a gorgeous Lake and we had all been looking forward to staying there. Mind you, Tom was still suffering terribly from altitude sickness and the Lake was almost the same height as Darchen, so we carried on moving just to get a bit lower. We could tell things were hot as we had 2 check points to get through on our way (although that could've been my imagination, fleeing as we were).
We ended up at the same campsite we'd been at 4 nights before- the one with the goats pretending to be reindeer. It had been a long day and dinner was very late but we were on our way down so all were feeling much more cheerful and with improved appetites. Good thing too, as Prem outdid himself: pizza and chips for diner (how do you cook pizza when you only have a 2 ring stove, a presure cooker and a couple of other pots and pans?)
resting after breakfast, before the final trek
A handsome beast before loading
Zutul- puk Monastery
Gyaltsen cheekily riding Yak man's pony out of camp
A marmot, the highest mammal in the world, which sounds eerily like a seagull!
Lake Manasrovar, possibly with army presence
Thankfully, we were all feeling better this morning...probably because we knew the end was in sight. It was only a 2 hour (ish) walk to the meeting place arranged beforehand with Tenzin. I popped up to the Zutul-puk Monastery before we left camp (feeling I really ought to visit one monastery before leaving this area. It was small and has a 'miracle cave' out back where Milarepa (a Tibetan saint) was supposed to have raised the roof with his head and hands- you can still see the imprint!
After a lovely almost leisurely walk of about 2 hours, we found Tom waiting for us, with Tenzin, Si-Shi-la, the car, the truck and all other staff. Hurray! Tom was looking much perkier and smiling- what a relief! He'd even got us a bottle of mineral water- the hero (we'd got tired of drinking sterilised river water- didn't taste great!) After many pictures (which I don't have as my camera batteries went flat- hopefully someone will send me some), a rest and update on events, we set off rather quickly. Apparently, some stupid foreigner at Darchen had handed out photos of the Dalai Lama. The Chinese army didn't like that so surrounded the town, started searching everyone in sight (Tibetans included), tore up travel permits (Tibetans included) and shut down all businesses and restaurants. Darchen had suddenly become a no-go area. Tenzin, our guide, decided, probably sensibly, that we should flee just in case the army decided to tear up our permit which would cause huge trouble for getting out of the country. we still wanted to visit Lake Manasrovar though so headed that way, only to find that the army had control of that area too, so we couldn't go down and take photos by the shore, only from a point far above. Very disappointing as it is a gorgeous Lake and we had all been looking forward to staying there. Mind you, Tom was still suffering terribly from altitude sickness and the Lake was almost the same height as Darchen, so we carried on moving just to get a bit lower. We could tell things were hot as we had 2 check points to get through on our way (although that could've been my imagination, fleeing as we were).
We ended up at the same campsite we'd been at 4 nights before- the one with the goats pretending to be reindeer. It had been a long day and dinner was very late but we were on our way down so all were feeling much more cheerful and with improved appetites. Good thing too, as Prem outdid himself: pizza and chips for diner (how do you cook pizza when you only have a 2 ring stove, a presure cooker and a couple of other pots and pans?)
resting after breakfast, before the final trek
A handsome beast before loading
Zutul- puk Monastery
Gyaltsen cheekily riding Yak man's pony out of camp
A marmot, the highest mammal in the world, which sounds eerily like a seagull!
Lake Manasrovar, possibly with army presence
Kailash, Day 2 continued- a downward journey
Yikes- 2 hours of going down hill, over rocks and scree is really tough on the knees! We passed a serene lake called Gouri Kund, also known as the Lake of Compassion into which the Indian pilgrims are supposed to immerse themselves, but Tibetans shudder and walk right past (they have a phobia of washing!)
We stopped for a rest and to give our knees some time off, and found that Tim was still struggling- his altitude sickness hadn't gone, although we'd gone down about 400 metres, so continued our journey slowly along the banks of the Lham Chukhir River, stopping every now and then to give Tim some oxygen. A few hours later I was getting worried about our slow progress so sent Gyaltsen scurrying ahead to join Prem and the yaks to set up camp, and to find a pony to bring Tim to camp- he was getting slower and slower. Rik had already gone ahead by this stage but we found him waiting for us once he was overtaken by Gyaltsen. About an hour later, we spotted 2 ponies galloping towards us- "your taxis are coming" said Rik who immediately headed off towards camp. Gyaltsen, bless him, had sent a pony for me too. It was a very pleasurable ride to camp, cos I was knackered and Tim was worn out too by looks of him.
Camp had been set up on a marshy drainage area near the river just under which was fine when we first got there, but a torrential monsoon downour started shortly after and contiuned all night. It was so bad that Gyaltsen, the hero, brought us our tea and our dinner in the tents- luxury, eh!
a bit of a glacier to cross
Eek- it's steep
Our last view of Kailash
A very tired Tim with tiny figure of Rik in the distance
We stopped for a rest and to give our knees some time off, and found that Tim was still struggling- his altitude sickness hadn't gone, although we'd gone down about 400 metres, so continued our journey slowly along the banks of the Lham Chukhir River, stopping every now and then to give Tim some oxygen. A few hours later I was getting worried about our slow progress so sent Gyaltsen scurrying ahead to join Prem and the yaks to set up camp, and to find a pony to bring Tim to camp- he was getting slower and slower. Rik had already gone ahead by this stage but we found him waiting for us once he was overtaken by Gyaltsen. About an hour later, we spotted 2 ponies galloping towards us- "your taxis are coming" said Rik who immediately headed off towards camp. Gyaltsen, bless him, had sent a pony for me too. It was a very pleasurable ride to camp, cos I was knackered and Tim was worn out too by looks of him.
Camp had been set up on a marshy drainage area near the river just under which was fine when we first got there, but a torrential monsoon downour started shortly after and contiuned all night. It was so bad that Gyaltsen, the hero, brought us our tea and our dinner in the tents- luxury, eh!
a bit of a glacier to cross
Eek- it's steep
Our last view of Kailash
A very tired Tim with tiny figure of Rik in the distance
Kailash- Day 2
Ok, so we cheated, well Tim & I cheated and hired ponies, but only to the top of Dolma Pass. Just to help us get up in time to get down the other side and to camp before dark. Rik, the super fit super human being that he is, managed to walk to the top before even the sherpas got up there!! This is Yak Man with his pony which he kindly let Tim have. I had some grotty nag whose bones I could feel under me and which was the stinkiest pony I'd ever come across. Every time it farted, poor old Tim was nearly knocked off his pony!
Actually, I was really relieved we could take ponies as I had the worst altitude effects so far on this trip when I woke up. Had problems sleeping, kept waking up feeling incredibly thirsty but couldn't bear drinking ice cold water (it was cold that night) and had one of those crippling headaches that stops you moving. Lots of pill popping later and I was fine and really to scramble onto the back of my nag and head off to the wild heights.
Anyhow, we made it- we reached the hardest part of the journey, Dolma Pass, a mere 5600 metres high (that's 18,000ft or so) and had hot lemon squash courtesy of the sherpas, who were puffing and panting away like all other respectable walkers. It was quite a rocky journey up, especially the last bit which was very steep, so the pass was a natural resting point.
Gyaltsen and Prem did their religious rites (offering kate (special scarves), burning incense, tying up prayer flags, etc) and I watched avidly so I'd know what to do later. I felt a bit silly doing it on my own and wasn't sure what to say- this was supposed to be the pinnacle of all pilgrims journey, with fervent prayers to whatever gods for whatever desires and dreams one had. All I could think of was to hope that we all got down ok and that all altitude sickness would pass quickly. Oh, and there was also a small wish for world peace tucked in there too. I tied up all the kata we'd been given so far (and it was a lot) plus some I'd bought as well as special prayer flags. Tim had bought some beer to make a beer offering up there, and as soon as he'd finished we headed down hill.
flags at the top of the pass;
One of our gorgeous yaks, a white beauty
Gyaltsen, Prem and Nyima having a well deserved break
Proof that the 3 of us made it to the top (although it could really be anywhere in Tibet, couldn't it...)
Kailash kora-Day 1
All woke feeling a bit rough this morning, especially Tom who was quite content to stay in bed for the next 2 and a half days and just sleep. I must admit, I was
beginning to wonder if I'd make it round Kailash I was feeling so weak, but decided I had to try. We left Tom in the hands of Tenzin and headed off to Tarboche in the car. Tarboche is about 2 hours or so from Darchen and our guide and driver had decided to drive us there as it would be quicker. There is a flagpole at Tarboche which is replaced every year at Saka Dawa (the major festival for Buddhists representing when Buddha reched enlightenment) and apparently it is vitally important how the flagpole stands when it is erected- if it is perfectly vertical, all is well, but if it leans one way or the other, it's not a good sign.
The Tarboche flagpole
..with me & Kailash included
Rik & Tim by a flag pyramid
Chuku Monastery
Yet another view of Kailash
We then drove a bit further to await our yaks. Met up with a large group of Indian pilgrims (a party of 40) who were doing the kora at the same time- they didn't look too happy, and most had arranged to go by pony round the whole course. The yaks took ages to arrive so Rik & I decided to try heading up the nearby hill to Chuku Monastery. We got halfway up when we saw the yaks approaching so headed back down...only to find the yaks and their owners had stopped for tea a little way away. Harumph! So the 3 of us set off slowly as we couldn't be bothered hanging around waiting any more. We left Gyaltsen and the others to take care of it- we were pretty sure they didn't need us around anyway.
The walk wasn't too bad too start off with, with steep hillsides on either side, and the trail following the Lha Chu river for the most part. Apparently this whole area is full of legends about the main Tibetan mythological hero, King Gesar, but I was too busy putting one foot in front of another to notice. Same goes for the terrain- it was stunning but I was too busy focusing on breathing to take note (we were at an altiude of 4,700 metres by this stage, and rising). It got progressively tougher and we all started flagging. However, for some bizarre reason, I got a second wind and so scooted off to find the camp site (we'd already been overtaken by our 3 gorgeous yaks and cheeky yak driver, as well as the 2 sherpas and the Tibetan truck driver who had come in place of Tenzin the guide). And boy, what a place they'd chosed to set up camp- it was amazing- in full view of Kailash and Dira-puk Monastery across the river! Fantastic! Mind you, we were all too pooped to appreciate it that much.
More views on the walk, and our campsite
beginning to wonder if I'd make it round Kailash I was feeling so weak, but decided I had to try. We left Tom in the hands of Tenzin and headed off to Tarboche in the car. Tarboche is about 2 hours or so from Darchen and our guide and driver had decided to drive us there as it would be quicker. There is a flagpole at Tarboche which is replaced every year at Saka Dawa (the major festival for Buddhists representing when Buddha reched enlightenment) and apparently it is vitally important how the flagpole stands when it is erected- if it is perfectly vertical, all is well, but if it leans one way or the other, it's not a good sign.
The Tarboche flagpole
..with me & Kailash included
Rik & Tim by a flag pyramid
Chuku Monastery
Yet another view of Kailash
We then drove a bit further to await our yaks. Met up with a large group of Indian pilgrims (a party of 40) who were doing the kora at the same time- they didn't look too happy, and most had arranged to go by pony round the whole course. The yaks took ages to arrive so Rik & I decided to try heading up the nearby hill to Chuku Monastery. We got halfway up when we saw the yaks approaching so headed back down...only to find the yaks and their owners had stopped for tea a little way away. Harumph! So the 3 of us set off slowly as we couldn't be bothered hanging around waiting any more. We left Gyaltsen and the others to take care of it- we were pretty sure they didn't need us around anyway.
The walk wasn't too bad too start off with, with steep hillsides on either side, and the trail following the Lha Chu river for the most part. Apparently this whole area is full of legends about the main Tibetan mythological hero, King Gesar, but I was too busy putting one foot in front of another to notice. Same goes for the terrain- it was stunning but I was too busy focusing on breathing to take note (we were at an altiude of 4,700 metres by this stage, and rising). It got progressively tougher and we all started flagging. However, for some bizarre reason, I got a second wind and so scooted off to find the camp site (we'd already been overtaken by our 3 gorgeous yaks and cheeky yak driver, as well as the 2 sherpas and the Tibetan truck driver who had come in place of Tenzin the guide). And boy, what a place they'd chosed to set up camp- it was amazing- in full view of Kailash and Dira-puk Monastery across the river! Fantastic! Mind you, we were all too pooped to appreciate it that much.
More views on the walk, and our campsite
The hell-hole named Darchen
So 2 days later of gruelling travel and we've arrived at Darchen, a real hell- hole of a town. Medieval but sleezy; Tibetan but filled with soldiers and aggresive Tibetan shop keepers; Dirty and shabby and full of obnoxious tourists (just hope we're not included in that last bit). The journey here was long, with a night of camping west of a town called Puryang ( a dust ridden no-horse town with a shop in a tent). The camp site was ok- surrounded by goats and aggressive local kids who wouldn't go until Rik handed out some balloons (wonder who told them he had balloons?) and some tents where our driver and guide spent the night drinking and carousing. Only after dinner did we find out that there was no spare oxygen provided by the tour company- it was supposed to be included but Rik couldn't find any in the car. So me & Gyaltsen went over to the tents to shout at the guide who professed no knowledge of it. And amazingly, there happened to be a fellow Tibetan in the tent who just so happened to have some spare cylinders with him. So we purchased one, for Tom just in case, and retired for the night- this time Rik sharing Tom's tent to keep an eye on him, which made me & Tim tent buddies for the night. It's like playing musical chairs!
And then on the way to Darchen the following morning...I got sick- Giardia, the bane of all travellers. I apologise now for the eggy burps everyone! I know they're vile, just didn't realise others could smell them too (groan!) And all this just as we were approaching Kailash too- our first sighting and all I wanted to do was find a loo! Mind you, at lunchtime (which was a trial) I swear I saw some offering dakinis (goddesses) in the clouds- long floating creatures with arms held out with offerings in their hands, heading in the direction of Kailash. I'm pretty sure I wasn't hallucinating. Was a quiet source of comfort.
Anyway, arrived in Darchen and sent the boys to research rooms- I refused to stay anywhere there wasn't a toilet! Ended up in a guesthouse which was sort of clean but which had the worst toilets in Tibet- made me even iller and I spent the afternoon sleeping it off. Tom also spent the afternoon sleeping, or holding his head in his hands frozen in pain, poor love.
Later that evening there was intense discussion about Tom and what to do. It was clear he wasn't well enough to make the kora round the mountain, but Rik wanted to stay with him. We persuaded Tenzin, the guide, to stay instead with firm instructions that if Tom got worse, to find a car to drive him to a lower altitude. And we all went to sleep, anxious about what the morning would bring...
Some goats at our campsite pretending to be reindeer
A river crossing on the way to the camp site
First sighting of Kailash
And then on the way to Darchen the following morning...I got sick- Giardia, the bane of all travellers. I apologise now for the eggy burps everyone! I know they're vile, just didn't realise others could smell them too (groan!) And all this just as we were approaching Kailash too- our first sighting and all I wanted to do was find a loo! Mind you, at lunchtime (which was a trial) I swear I saw some offering dakinis (goddesses) in the clouds- long floating creatures with arms held out with offerings in their hands, heading in the direction of Kailash. I'm pretty sure I wasn't hallucinating. Was a quiet source of comfort.
Anyway, arrived in Darchen and sent the boys to research rooms- I refused to stay anywhere there wasn't a toilet! Ended up in a guesthouse which was sort of clean but which had the worst toilets in Tibet- made me even iller and I spent the afternoon sleeping it off. Tom also spent the afternoon sleeping, or holding his head in his hands frozen in pain, poor love.
Later that evening there was intense discussion about Tom and what to do. It was clear he wasn't well enough to make the kora round the mountain, but Rik wanted to stay with him. We persuaded Tenzin, the guide, to stay instead with firm instructions that if Tom got worse, to find a car to drive him to a lower altitude. And we all went to sleep, anxious about what the morning would bring...
Some goats at our campsite pretending to be reindeer
A river crossing on the way to the camp site
First sighting of Kailash
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