Spooky, very very spooky- the Centre is deserted- it's a ghost town- no new arrivals in sight anywhere (apart from 2 resting in the clinic with eye trouble and a fractured leg). I have never seen it so empty and it's really sad. According to the Director who came in especially to meet us, the border is tightly closed, probably until August after the Olympic games, but when it reopens there will be a flood of refugees and the Centre will be exceptionally busy. So now is a good time to prepare and to get supplies in. We have decided to get a new floor for the classroom, and to replace the windows as they keep breaking.
Back at our new hotel later that afternoon (we moved into Dwarika's, an exceptionally beautiful place, an oasis in the midst of the bustling city), we started the interview process to select a replacement for one of our staff members, who resigned a few weeks ago.
We also had a long chat with an old friend who has returned here to live after a few years away, with her husband and young child. They are very concerned about conditions in Kathmandu as some of their friends have been arrested in the recent protests, and apparently foreigners too, although they are mainly released after a few hours. They are also worried as her sister-in-law returned to Tibet a short while before the recent riots and they have had no news from her and no one can get hold of her.
And now, Thursday, Nepal is closed and we have no choice but to rest and relax at the hotel- a good time to catch up on notes, start thinking of articles to write, draft assorted letters, compile to-do lists for back home, have an occasional swim, drink copious cups of tea and start to unwind after the frantic busy-ness of the past 10 days. Looking forward to Delhi (not many people would say that) as it is Karen's birthday and we plan to spend the day in an air-conditioned cinema watching Shah Rukh Kahn movies.
That's all for now- if anything exciting happens between here and home on Sunday, I will of course let you know. Hope you enjoy the travel tales, I'm sure more will emerge from our memories when we get home. Byee.
Kathmandu
Arrived finally in Kathmandu after that long but fascinating drive to Delhi, but with a stop over and a proper rest at La Sagrita for a few hours before the flight here. But, shock, someone had stolen the Himalayas- they can usually be seen on the flight in from Delhi, but on this flight, no sign of them, so I can only guess that someone has indeed nicked them- so keep a lookout for someone with a very large melting package under their arm.
Our trip, which as I mentioned previously has changed drastically from the original plan, we've now discovered is curtailed even more, as Thursday is election day and everything will be shut down with no vehicles on the road, plus the Centre here is shut for 2 days holiday. So basically, we have to do everything we need tomorrow! Many phone calls later and our day of running around is planned in fine detail. Off for internet and momos at Utse (best momos in Kathmandu!) Back at the hotel (Nirvana Garden), and no power- it turns out that Kathmandu is experiencing 8 hour power cuts every day these days. So nothing to do but sleep.
Our trip, which as I mentioned previously has changed drastically from the original plan, we've now discovered is curtailed even more, as Thursday is election day and everything will be shut down with no vehicles on the road, plus the Centre here is shut for 2 days holiday. So basically, we have to do everything we need tomorrow! Many phone calls later and our day of running around is planned in fine detail. Off for internet and momos at Utse (best momos in Kathmandu!) Back at the hotel (Nirvana Garden), and no power- it turns out that Kathmandu is experiencing 8 hour power cuts every day these days. So nothing to do but sleep.
A very special day
What an amazing day, and one that Ama-la, Rinchen and the director of the Centre had been trying to arrange for days and which involved numerous changes of plan and flight tickets. After 2 alarm calls from friends, we got up early and off to the Dalai Lama's Palace where were checked by security and kept waiting in assorted rooms, until finally being ushered with all the new arrivals into a hall where His Holiness came out to greet everyone and to give a supportive talk to his fellow Tibetans. He mentioned the importance of education; that Tibetans inside Tibet are facing very challenging conditions as there are some very tough officials in charge; that he is not seeking independence but autonomy; and the economic benefits of being part of China but retaining their culture and faith. He also thanked them profusely for having stayed inside Tibet until that point and keeping Tibetan culture alive and living, and that when they return to take what they have learned in India to teach to their fellow Tibetans, especially the philosophy of Buddhism. After that, everyone received a personal blessing, and we were introduced by the Centre director who explained who we were and what we do. His Holiness was very grateful, shook our hands firmly saying an equally firm 'Thank you' to both of us in turn. We had taken some of the recent artwork to show him, some of which he was quite startled at (the first appearance in the children's art of Chinese tanks) but appreciated it...and kept it (much to my dismay as I'd wanted to bring it back to the UK to use in future exhibitions. Oh well, I guess you don't argue with His Holiness!). I also handed over a pot of my mum's homemade strawberry jam- 'Homemade?' he said, then chuckled and took the jam appreciatively.
The next few hours were a bit of a blur as we raced back to the Centre for final farewells with Ama-la and Rinchen, and with the director, had a last dish of momos at Gakyi's (returning Dickyi's iron which had borrowed to smarten our outfits for the morning), then stuffed the last few bits and pieces in our bags, just finishing as Tender arrived with our taxi. We were snowed under with the farewell kata that Tibetans are so fond of wrapping round you when you leave- even Nakahara turned up to give farewell kata and hugs. And off we set, for our 10 hour taxi ride to Delhi- good time for a snooze...zzzzzzzzzz
The next few hours were a bit of a blur as we raced back to the Centre for final farewells with Ama-la and Rinchen, and with the director, had a last dish of momos at Gakyi's (returning Dickyi's iron which had borrowed to smarten our outfits for the morning), then stuffed the last few bits and pieces in our bags, just finishing as Tender arrived with our taxi. We were snowed under with the farewell kata that Tibetans are so fond of wrapping round you when you leave- even Nakahara turned up to give farewell kata and hugs. And off we set, for our 10 hour taxi ride to Delhi- good time for a snooze...zzzzzzzzzz
yummy cake
A nice day to start with- sunshine at last. Went to the Centre with Tenor, a very helpful friend, who had translated the mission statement and purpose of the Programme into Tibetan. He explained it thoroughly to Ama-la who seemed pleased that we had taken the time and trouble to do this. After seeing the Tiblets off on their journey back to school, we returned to the hotel to meet Rebecca Novick, the Executive Producer for the Tibet Connection, an English language radio and web show about Tibet. She wanted to interview us about the programme, which she thinks will be broadcast on April 22nd, and can be heard online (www.thetibetconnection.org). At dinner that eveing we were joined by Nakahara, the owner of Lung-Ta, for whom we'd had some prayer flags made- he was delighted. and very chatty that night. We walked with Dolma after dinner back to her friend's place- Jamyang is the longest serving baker in Dharamsala. She’d requested a banana cake from him for us and we tried a piece- it was delicious; he is an excellent baker, and supplies the hotels and restaurants in town. We have been so well taken care of on this trip- it's a real treat :)
monsoon
Ugh- a winter monsoon has descended- pelting rain, howling gales and general sogginess all day. We couldn't even see the mountains outside- it felt like we were right in the middle of a vast cloud. And it was cold, so cold that Karen and I ended up buying 2 very colourful and soft blankets and wrapped ourselves up for the day. It should have been an indoors day but we decided to return to the Centre for one final art class. There isn't usually a program at the weekends, but Ama-la made a special exception for us as we were there for such a short time. Because of the torrential rain, the class was held downstairs in the women's dormitory, and the tables had been carried down so the children could draw properly. They seemed very happy to see us again, and we found another visitor there, this time a reporter from Finland who is based in Beijing and was acompanied by Lobsang, a local photographer who has been to the centre many times before.
Back at the hotel, we chatted to Steve who was leaving later but keeping his bag in our room until it was time for him to catch his bus. Apparently he has emailed many of his friends back home in the hope that some of them will be interested in helping Art Refuge UK. He also promised to meet up with us in Nottingham in May when the Dalai Lama comes over. I look forward to seeing him again and hope we can include him in the charity somehow.
In the evening, the Tiblets wanted to join in the candelit procession as it was a very special evening. Children from the 3 major Tibetan schools in the area gathered in Mcleod Ganj to lead the procession, along with banners they had prepared in school, the most gut wrenching of which read: Stop Killing our Parents. We watched them all pass by our hotel, then joined in with the rest of the locals. It was an incredibly moving time, walking in solidarity with the Tiblets, holding hands, them chanting the prayers as loud as they could, over and over; elderly Tibetans passing us and acknowledging our presence with a nod and a broad smile of gratitude; video cameras from news reporters recording faces and banners, the overwheming feelings of sadness and anger and frustration...The march ended at the main temple, where there were speeches, and video footage and photos of the troubles in Tibet. The Tiblets got a little agitated and wanted to leave at that point, not wanting to stay for the beginning of the Tara prayers that the other children were settling down to do for the whole night. So we returned to our room, after dinner, and chatted and watched TV. A slightly more sombre evening than the previous night.
Back at the hotel, we chatted to Steve who was leaving later but keeping his bag in our room until it was time for him to catch his bus. Apparently he has emailed many of his friends back home in the hope that some of them will be interested in helping Art Refuge UK. He also promised to meet up with us in Nottingham in May when the Dalai Lama comes over. I look forward to seeing him again and hope we can include him in the charity somehow.
In the evening, the Tiblets wanted to join in the candelit procession as it was a very special evening. Children from the 3 major Tibetan schools in the area gathered in Mcleod Ganj to lead the procession, along with banners they had prepared in school, the most gut wrenching of which read: Stop Killing our Parents. We watched them all pass by our hotel, then joined in with the rest of the locals. It was an incredibly moving time, walking in solidarity with the Tiblets, holding hands, them chanting the prayers as loud as they could, over and over; elderly Tibetans passing us and acknowledging our presence with a nod and a broad smile of gratitude; video cameras from news reporters recording faces and banners, the overwheming feelings of sadness and anger and frustration...The march ended at the main temple, where there were speeches, and video footage and photos of the troubles in Tibet. The Tiblets got a little agitated and wanted to leave at that point, not wanting to stay for the beginning of the Tara prayers that the other children were settling down to do for the whole night. So we returned to our room, after dinner, and chatted and watched TV. A slightly more sombre evening than the previous night.
Friday
A very intense day. Arrived at the Centre late morning to find my Tiblets had already arrived. For those of you who may not understand this statement- my 'Tiblets' are a group of children I first met many years ago at the Reception Centres and have kept in touch with since- we meet up every time I come over and we have grown to be like a family. I have even met their family members, those who are now in Kathmandu and those who are still in Tibet, and sometimes I carry messages and photos back and forth. The Tiblets are very special to me and we had managed to get permission for them to come here to Dharamsala for the night so we could spend time together. It is a particularly intense time because they are worried about family back in Tibet but can get no news about them, and I was overwhelmed with sadness when I greeted them, maybe from my own worry about their families or had picked up on their anxiety. Some children in their school heard the other day that some family members in Tibet were killed recently, and now there has been another riot and more Tibetans have been killed. So as you can imagine, the mood in Dharamsala is very somber- the candle lit vigil this evening was attended by many more people than usual and had us in tears as we watched them pass by. Mind you, I have been fighting back the tears all day starting with our first greeting, and then in class this afternoon, one of the Tiblets drew a very poignant picture of the death and destruction in Tibet and it was heartbreaking. Added to this, there are posters and pictures all over Dharamsala of the dead in Tibet, their wounds, blood etc. Very gory and gut wrenching.
You read in the papers back home about there being prayers, candle-lit vigils, protests, etc, but to actually experience it is a completely different matter- it really pierces you to the bone. Our favourite restaurant owner was telling us earlier about the hunger strike here, and how every business has pledged to send one person from their family to join in- it's a relay so each person goes on hunger strike for 24 hours, and she was telling us her son had volunteered as he wanted to do something important to support their people in Tibet. We are now waiting as there is a programme about Tibet on the Indian news tonight and we want to see if there is any more news.
More tomorrow..
You read in the papers back home about there being prayers, candle-lit vigils, protests, etc, but to actually experience it is a completely different matter- it really pierces you to the bone. Our favourite restaurant owner was telling us earlier about the hunger strike here, and how every business has pledged to send one person from their family to join in- it's a relay so each person goes on hunger strike for 24 hours, and she was telling us her son had volunteered as he wanted to do something important to support their people in Tibet. We are now waiting as there is a programme about Tibet on the Indian news tonight and we want to see if there is any more news.
More tomorrow..
Thursday April 3rd
Gosh, there's a lot to write about. We arrived in India ok (luckily leaving from Terminal 4 not 5) and had a very smooth flight up to Dharamsala - if anyone is planning a trip I enthusiastically recommend the plane journey- it's so quick. However, if you suffer from motion sickness it might not be an idea as it can be quite bumpy if you meet clouds and your tummy will move up to your mouth and then back down again!
But I'm sure some of you want to know our journey details. You're all dying to hear what's going on considering the world's eyes are on the Tibetan issue right now.
Dharamsala is a very interesting place to be currently. There are many Tibetan flags fluttering in the breeze, and over people's shoulders; many posters for a Free Tibet, and a candlelit procession every night with prayers to Chenrezig for all the Tibetans who have died in the conflict. Sitting in the internet cafe we saw the procession of the night passing by, led by monks it seemed and followed by nuns, as manay local Tibetans as possible and assorted supportive Westerners, all of whom cradled a candle and prayed. The sound of their mantras filled the night air and lingered, touching the heart deeply.
At the moment in the Centre, there are 9 children. A few left last Friday, and 3 arrived last night. But these will be the last ones for a while. In my email report today from Kathmandu, I was told there are none left there now and I'm guessing that until the Olympic games are over, no more will be able to leave Tibet. Apparently there are Chinese soldiers patrolling up to twenty miles within the Nepal border in civilian clothing so any new refugees don't stand a chance!
At the centre today, we met with a lovely man called Francesco who is writing a book on memories of Tibet and so is interviewing adults and children to find out their stories - he is going to include some drawings from the children as well.
We also met with the owner of Lung-Ta, the Japanese restaurant here - he has been here for 20 years, helping the Tibetans - he wants some pictures to send back to Japan to exhibit, so we will meet with him tomorrow to discuss further.
It is very busy at the centre for obvious reasons, and there are many film crews around, as well as journalists, Tibet activists and the curious.
On a more updating note, the India Football Captain has decided to pull out of the Olympic Torch relay as he is a supporter of Tibet, and the previous India Defence Minister has recommended that India blockade the Olympic Torch so that it doesn't come to India at all.
And on top of it all, the Dalai Lama has cancelled all meetings as he is not well..it's not that he is physiaclly sick, but he is sick from sadness over all the troubles and deaths and violence.
But I'm sure some of you want to know our journey details. You're all dying to hear what's going on considering the world's eyes are on the Tibetan issue right now.
Dharamsala is a very interesting place to be currently. There are many Tibetan flags fluttering in the breeze, and over people's shoulders; many posters for a Free Tibet, and a candlelit procession every night with prayers to Chenrezig for all the Tibetans who have died in the conflict. Sitting in the internet cafe we saw the procession of the night passing by, led by monks it seemed and followed by nuns, as manay local Tibetans as possible and assorted supportive Westerners, all of whom cradled a candle and prayed. The sound of their mantras filled the night air and lingered, touching the heart deeply.
At the moment in the Centre, there are 9 children. A few left last Friday, and 3 arrived last night. But these will be the last ones for a while. In my email report today from Kathmandu, I was told there are none left there now and I'm guessing that until the Olympic games are over, no more will be able to leave Tibet. Apparently there are Chinese soldiers patrolling up to twenty miles within the Nepal border in civilian clothing so any new refugees don't stand a chance!
At the centre today, we met with a lovely man called Francesco who is writing a book on memories of Tibet and so is interviewing adults and children to find out their stories - he is going to include some drawings from the children as well.
We also met with the owner of Lung-Ta, the Japanese restaurant here - he has been here for 20 years, helping the Tibetans - he wants some pictures to send back to Japan to exhibit, so we will meet with him tomorrow to discuss further.
It is very busy at the centre for obvious reasons, and there are many film crews around, as well as journalists, Tibet activists and the curious.
On a more updating note, the India Football Captain has decided to pull out of the Olympic Torch relay as he is a supporter of Tibet, and the previous India Defence Minister has recommended that India blockade the Olympic Torch so that it doesn't come to India at all.
And on top of it all, the Dalai Lama has cancelled all meetings as he is not well..it's not that he is physiaclly sick, but he is sick from sadness over all the troubles and deaths and violence.
Spring 2008..changes afoot
Yes, I know, no blog since last August, and that's not the point of a blog is it? Well, I feel that a blog should have something interesting to say, which is why I only do it when I go travelling, in particular when it's traveling for the charity. So on Monday, Karen & I (she's our charity secretary and my good buddy) are going to Dharamsala for a few days and then on to Kathmandu for a few more days. She's not been to Kathmandu before so it will be her introduction to the Art Refuge Programme there and our staff. well, I say our staff except we seem to be one short now; Kyiso is currently traveling in the USA. Probably safer there, as many Tibetans in Kathmandu have been protesting over events in Tibet, and many have been arrested, so I hear.
The purpose of this blog, then, is to keep you updated as to events there, and how they may impact on Art Refuge/ Art Refuge UK. But there will probably be other bits and pieces thrown in for good measure- just to keep it entertaining...
More on Tuesday when we (hopefully) arrive in Dharamsala( we are flying BA to Delhi- fingers crossed that they've got their act together by then)
The purpose of this blog, then, is to keep you updated as to events there, and how they may impact on Art Refuge/ Art Refuge UK. But there will probably be other bits and pieces thrown in for good measure- just to keep it entertaining...
More on Tuesday when we (hopefully) arrive in Dharamsala( we are flying BA to Delhi- fingers crossed that they've got their act together by then)
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