Ok, so we cheated, well Tim & I cheated and hired ponies, but only to the top of Dolma Pass. Just to help us get up in time to get down the other side and to camp before dark. Rik, the super fit super human being that he is, managed to walk to the top before even the sherpas got up there!! This is Yak Man with his pony which he kindly let Tim have. I had some grotty nag whose bones I could feel under me and which was the stinkiest pony I'd ever come across. Every time it farted, poor old Tim was nearly knocked off his pony!
Actually, I was really relieved we could take ponies as I had the worst altitude effects so far on this trip when I woke up. Had problems sleeping, kept waking up feeling incredibly thirsty but couldn't bear drinking ice cold water (it was cold that night) and had one of those crippling headaches that stops you moving. Lots of pill popping later and I was fine and really to scramble onto the back of my nag and head off to the wild heights.
Anyhow, we made it- we reached the hardest part of the journey, Dolma Pass, a mere 5600 metres high (that's 18,000ft or so) and had hot lemon squash courtesy of the sherpas, who were puffing and panting away like all other respectable walkers. It was quite a rocky journey up, especially the last bit which was very steep, so the pass was a natural resting point.
Gyaltsen and Prem did their religious rites (offering kate (special scarves), burning incense, tying up prayer flags, etc) and I watched avidly so I'd know what to do later. I felt a bit silly doing it on my own and wasn't sure what to say- this was supposed to be the pinnacle of all pilgrims journey, with fervent prayers to whatever gods for whatever desires and dreams one had. All I could think of was to hope that we all got down ok and that all altitude sickness would pass quickly. Oh, and there was also a small wish for world peace tucked in there too. I tied up all the kata we'd been given so far (and it was a lot) plus some I'd bought as well as special prayer flags. Tim had bought some beer to make a beer offering up there, and as soon as he'd finished we headed down hill.
flags at the top of the pass;
One of our gorgeous yaks, a white beauty
Gyaltsen, Prem and Nyima having a well deserved break
Proof that the 3 of us made it to the top (although it could really be anywhere in Tibet, couldn't it...)
0 comments:
Post a Comment